Note: All listed chemicals and statistics in this blog post are referencing ingredients that are legally accepted for cosmetic use within Europe. The U.S Food & Drug Administration (FDA) who are responsible for regulating cosmetics in the USA are even less restricted, with only 11 chemicals banned for use in cosmetics, as apposed to Europe having banned more than 1,300. I recommend extra caution with (I personally completely avoid) cosmetics manufactured in the US.
In no particular order:
Background - According to EU cosmetic labelling regulations, “materials used as solvents or carriers for perfume and aromatic compositions” do not need to be identified on the ingredients list. This means companies are able to hide multiple chemicals under the listing ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’ (in the EU) or ‘fragrance’ (in the USA), all because they’re deemed trade secrets.
The risk - The International Fragrance Association has published a list of more than 3000 chemicals currently used under the term ‘fragrance’ or ‘parfum’. 1 in 20 of these earned a ‘high’ hazard score according to the EWG, with risks such as organ system toxicity, ecotoxicology, endocrine disruption and irritation to skin, eyes, or lungs⁽²⁾.
Typical products - Fragrance ingredients are common in virtually all types of beauty products.
Avoid - all products with ‘fragrance’, ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’ as an ingredient, and opt for transparency with your products. Manufacturers can and should choose to disclose ALL ingredients that are in their products.
Petroleum-based ingredients come in many forms and are extremely common in mass-produced skincare products. They contain penetration enhancing qualities ¹²⁾ that provide instant relief from dry skin, as the product is able to reach the skins deeper layers. However, they weaken the skin’s barrier and thin the skin, damaging your skins natural ability to create its own sebum and regenerate new skin cells effectively. One study⁽³⁾ demonstrates how aqueous cream BP, the most widely prescribed product for eczema treatment, actually reduces the thickness of healthy skin by more than 10% over just 4 weeks use. This would lead to severe dryness and skin that is vulnerable to environmental damage - shocking considering they are often medically prescribed and intended to moisturise the skin.
Another major concern is that petroleum-based ingredients are often contaminated with the toxic compound 1,4 dioxane, which is a human carcinogen ⁽⁴⁾⁽⁵⁾⁽⁶⁾⁽⁷⁾⁽⁸⁾. An alarming study by the EWG found that 22 percent of all conventional cosmetic products contain unsafe levels of 1,4 dioxane. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, we should limit our exposure to 0.28 ppm (parts per million)⁽⁷⁾, and the Scientific Committee on consumer safety (SCCS) is of the opinion that more than 10ppm in cosmetic products is unsafe⁽⁹⁾, but a study found 1,4 dioxane in cosmetic products in concentrations up to 279ppm, and in excess of 85ppm in children’s shampoos⁽¹⁰⁾. Studies also show that 1,4 dioxane readily penetrates the skin, impairing our skin’s barrier, and increasing the likelihood that the product, including the toxicity of the ingredients, will end up in your bloodstream⁽¹¹⁾.
As well as often being contaminated with 1,4 dioxane, these different petroleum based ingredients carry further risks:
* Paraffinum Liquidum - AKA - mineral oil, liquid paraffin, paraffin wax. This petrolatum derivative functions as a penetration enhancer, permeating the skin’s layers and allowing greater absorption of the ingredients. Unfortunately our bodies cannot metabolise these hydrocarbons, meaning once it’s in our system, it’s there for good and accumulates with continued use. “There is strong evidence that mineral oil hydrocarbons are the greatest contaminant of the human body, amounting to approximately 1g per person” ⁽¹⁴⁾. One study found a correlation between use of hand creams and lipsticks in daily life and mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons being found in fat and milk samples of females⁽¹⁴⁾. It’s also been documented that Paraffin Liquidum is a toxicant to our immune system, our respiratory system⁽¹⁷⁾, and can increase the risk of developing Rheumatoid Arthritis by 30%⁽¹⁸⁾.
* Ethoxylated ingredients - PEGs, SLS, SLES, phenoxyethanol and ceteareth-20 are all ingredients that are not only contaminated with 1,4 dioxane, but also Ethylene Oxide. Ethylene Oxide is classed as a known human carcinogen⁽²⁰⁾ and studies report nervous system toxicity and neurotoxicity⁽²¹⁾. An in vitro study indicates PEGs are a toxicant to our DNA ⁽¹⁶⁾, and unfortunately have also been shown to be toxic to aqualife, with a study on amphibians reporting neurotoxicity and oxidative stress from water polluted with PEG polymers⁽¹⁹⁾.
Avoid -
Any ingredient containing ‘eth’ or ‘xynol’ in the name (eg. Ceteareth, oleth)
Chemicals with PEG or PPG in their name (or written in full such as polyethylene glycol)
Paraffinum Liquidum
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Petrolatum
Steroid based creams are widely prescribed to treat inflammatory dermatoses, such as eczema and psoriasis. Since the first topical steroids in the 1950s, concentrations have become up to 1000 times more potent⁽²²⁾. The anti inflammatory benefits are grossly negated by the skin thinning effects of the steroids, known as skin atrophy. A single application of a topical steroid can cause an ultrasonographically detectable decrease in skin thickness that lasts up to 3 days⁽²³⁾, and with continued use, more obvious changes in skin texture are considered permanent and resistant to treatment⁽²²⁾. You would notice thinner, ‘cigarette paper’ like skin that is much drier and wrinkled, due to the reduction in collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid⁽²⁴⁾. Ironically, this only worsens skin dermatitis and your skin’s ability to moisturise itself. Other symptoms include acne, rosacea, delayed wound healing and hypopigmentation.
Avoid: Hydrocortisone, clobetasone, fluticasone are a few examples. Steroids are always listed with a percentage to indicate concentration. If you see a percentage next to the active ingredient then it’s worth checking it’s not a steroid.
Retinol, an over the counter type of retinoid, is used to promote clear, wrinkle-reduced skin. However, with a toxicity rating of 9 out of 10 on EWG’s Skin Deep database, we believe it’s worth avoiding. The most common side effects are skin irritation, erythema (reddening of the skin and inflamed blood capillaries) and peeling⁽²⁵⁾⁽²⁶⁾. Retinoids affect the mucocutaneous membrane, decreasing the skin’s natural sebum production and reducing epidermal thickness, which can lead to dermatitis⁽²⁵⁾. The thinning of the skin and the increased cell turnover makes it highly phototoxic, which means it increases sensitivity to UV damage, causing increased production of free radicals in the skin in the presence of UV radiation and potentially leading to sun damage, such as hyperpigmentation and premature ageing⁽²⁷⁾.
As if that’s not enough, it’s also been linked to cancerous tumour formation, as well as developmental and reproductive toxicity⁽²⁸⁾⁽²⁹⁾.
Typical products - Suncreams, moisturising creams, serums, lip products and makeup.
Avoid - Retinol / retinyl palmitate / retinyl acetate / retinoic acid
Parabens are the most widely used preservative, found in an estimated 75 - 90% of cosmetics⁽³⁰⁾ and detected in virtually all Americans by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC)⁽³¹⁾. The EU restricts the concentration of parabens in cosmetics, but knowing that the toxicity of parabens is accumulative, we think it’s important to avoid using them entirely. Parabens actually occur naturally in some foods, but are easily metabolised when eaten. The parabens found in cosmetics are a synthetic preparation derived from petrochemicals and are absorbed through the skin, bypassing the metabolic processes and entering the bloodstream and organs intact⁽³⁰⁾.
Studies have shown parabens to act like estrogen in the body, disrupting our hormone functions and reproductive systems with affects such as decreasing sperm count⁽³²⁾, decreasing menstrual cycle length and fertility⁽³³⁾, and increased odds of pre-term birth and decreased birth weight⁽³⁴⁾. Increased risk of cancer, especially breast cancer in women, is another concern of paraben exposure. Propylparaben can alter the expression of genes and accelerate the growth of breast cancer cells, Methylparaben can lead to UV-induced damage of skin cells, and Butylparaben can combine with other molecules in the body to promote the development of cancerous cells.
The environment also suffers with our use of parabens, as low levels of butylparaben parabens can kill coral⁽³⁵⁾.
Avoid - Check the INCI ingredients list (the full ingredients under the Latin names) and avoid any ingredient containing the word ‘paraben’. Eg. Ethylparaben or Isobutylparaben.
There are two types of UV filters used in sun protection products - chemical and physical. The chemical filters absorb the UV rays, then convert it into heat and release it from the body, whereas the physical filters block and reflect the sun’s rays. The FDA has recently removed all of the 14 chemical sun protective ingredients from its ‘generally recognised as safe and effective’ (GRASE) category, with the 2 only physical filters, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, remaining GRASE. Though this is a positive step, the use of these chemical suncreams are still permitted so we recommend actively avoiding use. These are the most common:
Oxybenzone* - One of the most commonly used and the most worrisome according to current scientific research. It is readily absorbed through the skin⁽³⁶⁾⁽³⁷⁾, and has been found by the CDC in nearly all Americans, including in our breast milk⁽³⁸⁾. It’s categorised by the EU commission as an endocrine disrupter⁽³⁹⁾, affecting several bodily functions, including development and immune function, and increasing the risk of breast cancer⁽⁴⁰⁾. Researchers have found higher oxybenzone levels to cause a significant reduction in testosterone levels in adolescent boys⁽⁴¹⁾, and statistically significant associations between oxybenzone levels during pregnancy and birth outcomes, such as shorter pregnancies and affected birth weights⁽⁴²⁾.
It’s affect on reproduction is not limited to humans. Several countries have banned sun protection products with oxybenzone as it causes irreversible affects to aquatic life - it impairs the reproductivity of organisms, including coral and fish, and can ultimately cause sterilisation and extinction⁽⁴³⁾.
Octocrylene* - A study by the CNRS (France’s National scientific research centre), demonstrated that octocrylene degrades over time and then generates benzophenone, an endocrine disrupter and mutagenic that can cause cancer, dermatitis and affect fertility rates. Research has shown male partners with higher concentrations of benzophenone in their system have a 30% lower chance of conceiving⁽⁴⁴⁾. It is being urged to be banned and recalled within the European Parliament⁽⁴⁵⁾ but is still in question. It also appears to be a strong allergen that can cause contact dermatitis⁽⁴⁶⁾.
Avobenzone and Homosalate* - Other widely-used chemical filters that studies show are systematically absorbed into the body after one use and can disrupt our endocrine system. Avobenzone has been found to block the effects of testosterone⁽⁴⁷⁾, and homoslate has been found to produce toxic breakdown byproducts over time⁽⁴⁸⁾.
*All chemical filters, including these most commonly used, have the potential to hurt coral reefs⁽⁴⁹⁾. As the term ‘reef safe’ is in no way regulated we suggest ignoring this term and checking the INCI list.
The physical filters, minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, are the only recognised safe ingredients for sun care products, though powder and spray formulations are not recommended, as they pose a carcinogenic risk if inhalation occurs⁽⁵⁰⁾. We recommend always opting for creams, lotions or oils for your mineral sun care products!
Avoid - All products containing - Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Avobenzone or Homosalate.
Background - Primarily used in the rubber industry, this toxicant is also a common ingredient in har dyes, peels and acne treatments. Though concentrations in the EU are restricted to 1.25% in cosmetic products, we still believe the multitude of potential side effects mean it’s worth avoiding entirely.
The risks - Numerous case studies, animal studies and in vitro studies demonstrate that resorcinol disrupts thyroid function which can result in an overactive thyroid (hyperthyroidism) and enlargement of the thyroid gland known as a goiter⁽⁵¹⁾⁽⁵²⁾⁽⁵³⁾⁽⁵⁴⁾⁽⁵⁵⁾. The symptoms of an overactive thyroid include anxiety, fatigue, irregular heart rate, itchiness, hair loss and sever headaches. Resorcinol does this by inhibiting enzymes that are key in thyroid hormone synthesis and simultaneously activating thyroid hormone receptors.
It’s also a skin irritant and sensitiser, especially if it comes into contact with the eyes⁽⁵⁶⁾⁽⁵⁷⁾.
Typical products - Most common in hair colour and bleaching products. Also in peels and treatments for acne, eczema and other dermatological conditions.
Avoid - Read product labels to avoid products that contain ‘Resorcinol’, ‘1,3 - Benzenediol’ or ‘1,3 Dihydroxybenzene’ (‘m-hydroxybenze’, ‘m-dihydroxyphenol’).
These silicone-based compounds are used in cosmetics to give a smooth skin feel, cover small wrinkles and speed the drying of hair products. They’re mostly restricted in the EU for concentrations exceeding 0.1%, but we still think they’re worth avoiding completely as they have the ability to accumulate both in our bodies and the environment⁽⁵⁸⁾. In the environment, the liquid plastic polymers cause problems for sea life, and do not ever biodegrade. In the body, siloxanes are classified by the EU as endocrine disrupters and a possible toxicant to our reproductive and immune systems, that have been shown to impair fertility⁽⁵⁹⁾.
Typical products - Hair products, moisturisers, facial treatments, deodorants creams.
Avoid - Any ingredient ending in ‘cone’, ‘conol’, ‘col’ or ‘cane’, such as Dimethicone.
Background - We’ve all heard of the dangers of asbestos, but many cosmetics and baby products are contaminated with asbestos through the use of talc. According to a study from November 2020, 14% of makeup products containing talc were shown to also contain asbestos. Unfortunately, due to a lack of regulations, even certified asbestos-free talc is often contaminated⁽⁶⁰⁾.
Being the softest mineral on earth, talc is added to makeup and baby products to impart a silky texture and offer absorbency. 3 out of 4 children’s makeup products tested from Claire’s were found to have high levels of asbestos⁽⁶¹⁾, as well as the all too popular Johnson’s baby powder.
From Nov 2022, the EU have banned the use of talc in products intended for children under the age of 3. Though this is a positive step, we still have to be careful with makeup and skincare products intended for those above 3 years old. There’s no restriction of this ingredient in the U.S.
The risks - Asbestos poses high risks for respiratory toxicity and cancer, particularly mesothelioma and cancers of the lung, larynx and ovaries⁽⁶²⁾. In fact, it is thought that most mesotheliomas are due to asbestos exposure⁽⁶³⁾.
Typical products - Powdered makeup, deodorants, feminine hygiene products.
Avoid - As talc is a natural substance, looking for ‘all natural’ or ‘organic’ products isn’t sufficient. Avoid any products that contain talc as an ingredient and opt to support brands that refuse to use talc in any of their products.
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16. Low molecular weight polyethylene glycol induces chromosome aberrations in Chinese hamster cells cultured in vitro
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25. Olson JM, Ameer MA, Goyal A. Vitamin A Toxicity. [Updated 2022 Aug 8]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2023
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Last Reviewed: August 2022
At Planted we are devoted to creating a business that leaves the world in a better place than where when we started. We take a holistic approach, understanding the importance of our impact on the environment, as well any impact on people’s mood or mindset, and our customers’ overall health. Ethical practices shape our business model and brand identity, which we are very proud of.
PRODUCT
* We will only ever use earth and skin friendly ingredients, never synthetic ingredients, which can impact water sources if they’re partially washed of, as well as impacting our customers’ health.
* We aim to source as many of the ingredients and raw materials as locally as possible. The honey in our cleanser for example is sourced from our local elderly beekeeper who loves his bees.
* We will never test on, or buy supplies from those who test on animals. We are certified Cruelty-Free.
* All packaging will be readily recyclable, from the containers that hold the products to the tape wrapped around the boxes they’re delivered in!
* We are working on a refill service to deliver a closed loop system. Our glass packaging will be able to be returned to us for reuse. More information about our sustainable packaging choices can be read here.
* We only ever buy supplies from companies that share our values.
* We chose a highly renewable bamboo spoon to accompany our Coffee Scrub.
* GMO free policy - All ingredients used in Planted products are certified free of genetic modification. This is a factor in our high awarded score by the Ethical Company Organisation.
* The muslin cloth we stock (that comes with our Oil Cleanser) will only ever be made from organic cotton, as the pesticides used to farm non-organic cotton often pollute surrounding water sources and threaten our ecosystems. You can read more about this on our blog post.
MANUFACTURE
* We pledge that nothing that isn't readily biodegradable ends up in landfill. This means every item of waste that is not readily recyclable is disposed of sustainably by specialist facilities, and of course anything recyclable is taken to the necessary collection points.
* Our electricity is supplied with renewal energy only, by Octopus Energy.
* With only one employee (myself) and all the products being made by hand, we have minimal gas and electricity use, and plan to keep it that way.
* We will continue to ensure our manufacturing process is plastic free, using mostly glass. * We will always opt for reusable rather than disposable equipment (piping bags, pipettes, stirrers, utensils etc) with the only disposable item being gloves for sanitary manufacture. * We will only ever use biodegradable gloves.
* The only electric equipment we use are hand held electric blenders, and my laptop. We favour old fashioned elbow grease over electrical equipment.
* We opt for reuse over recycle – box filler / bubble wrap and empty containers are listed on local groups for collection to be reused.
GENERAL
* We aim to fulfil our online orders carbon neutrally by walking or cycling to post offices.
* We aim to only support like-minded companies, who detail their actions taken to reduce their impact on the environment. So the sourcing of our ingredients and raw materials, where we choose to stock our products, and the platforms we choose to advertise on all support the environmentally conscious.
* Much of our market stands are hand made, second hand or upcycled.
* We will ensure all files are processed digitally, and are only printed if absolutely necessary.
* Any professional prints, such as labels and information cards, will be printed using recycled paper.
* We prioritise our marketing efforts locally, including events we attend and ad campaigns we set up, to encourage less carbon emission during travel for us and our products.
* We are committed to continually monitoring our environmental performance and working to keep our practices up to date.
Melissa Chartan
Position Founder and Formulator
To maintain its optimum homeostasis, our skin is dependent on being slightly acidic, a pH of around 4 - 5.5. Changes to our skin’s pH, levels of hydration or the environment can disrupt the acid mantle’s delicate balance and change the composition of the bacterial flora and activity of enzymes. Even minor disruptions could lead to sensitivities to external stress, inflammation, enlarged pores, increased water loss (dehydrated skin), increased chance of infections, reduced healing, and dry, scaly skin. Continued disruptions in our skin’s pH compromise our defence system and can give way to pathogens that cause diseases such as contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis, acne and candida infections.
HOW TO MAINTAIN SKIN PH BALANCE NATURALLY.
Skin pH can be affected by many things - sweat, sebum, pollution, genetics, age, water hardness, topical antibiotics, and of course, the products we use. Detergent based or soaping ingredients are highly alkaline, which strip the skin of its natural oils, giving you that squeaky clean feeling, and unfortunately greatly disrupting the acidic balance of our skin. Look for skincare and makeup products that are pH balanced, especially for items you use regularly, and after washing with water (a neutral pH of 7), use a gentle toner to return your skin to the 4 - 5.5 it’s happiest at.
Cumulative evidence has demonstrated that our gut health also has a direct influence on our skin health and microbiome. Studies have shown oral supplementation of various probiotic strains result in a significant decrease in transepidermal water loss, a significant increase in corneal hydration, decreased sensitivities, and an overall positive effect on skin barrier function, which are all key roles of our acid mantle. Taking a daily probiotic is a great starting point to care for our gut health and skin.
HOW CAN I TELL IF MY PRODUCTS ARE PH BALANCED? ARE PLANTED PRODUCTS PH BALANCED?
Unless the pH is listed on the product itself, the only way to find out your product’s pH is by checking the company’s website or asking. You can also purchase litmus pH strips and test them yourself, though it’s difficult to get an accurate reading.
Only aqueous solutions contain a pH, and with most of our products being anhydrous (not containing water), they don’t contain a pH and therefore will not affect your skin’s natural pH.
Our Nutrient Rich Face Cream is our only water-based product and we were careful to optimise its pH. Instead of distilled water as a base, which is typical for most facial moisturisers (listed as aqua on the list of ingredients), we use organic rose hydrosol, which is naturally a pH of 5.5, and offers other skin soothing, hydrating and cleansing properties.
We also use aspen bark extract as part of the preservation system, which is naturally high in salicylic acid and therefore contributes to the gentle acidity of our face cream formula.
References:
1. Influence of Buffers of Different pH and Composition on the Murine Skin Barrier, Epidermal Proliferation, Differentiation, and Inflammation
2. The Influence of Calcium on the Skin pH and Epidermal Barrier During Aging
3. The pH of the main Brazilian commercial moisturizers and liquid soaps
4. Differences in the skin surface pH and bacterial microflora due to the long-term application of synthetic detergent preparations
5. pH and Buffer Capacity of Topical Formulations
6. Effects of soap and detergents on skin surface pH, stratum corneum hydration and fat content in infants
7. The pH of the skin surface and its impact on the barrier function
8. The alkaline pH-adapted skin barrier is disrupted severely by SLS-induced irritation
9. Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora
10. The Gut Microbiome as a Major Regulator of the Gut-Skin Axis
11. Effect of heat-killed Lactobacillus brevis SBC8803
12. Effects of oral intake of heat-killed Lactobacillus brevis SBC8803 on dry skin conditions
13. Randomised double-blind placebo-controlled study of the effect of Lactobacillus paracasei NCC 2461 on skin reactivity
14. Oral intake of Lactobacillus helveticus-fermented milk whey
Assessing material options and sustainability factors
* Bioplastics - These are plastics made from other biological materials, such as sugarcane, rather than petroleum. They are 100% recyclable, 100% renewable, and often technically carbon negative, as the crops absorb CO2 as they grow. You can see why people might refer to this as the ‘green’ polyethylene. However, it’s still ultimately resulting in the production of plastic, which behave exactly like petroleum based plastics, taking hundreds of years to biodegrade and polluting our land and seas with microplastics. Large areas of land would be used to grow the crops for polymer production, rather than keeping our resources for food production, and the pesticides required would pollute our groundwater.
* Compostable bioplastics, such as Polylactic Acid (PLA) - Made from biological materials such as corn starch, these often single use plastics boast 100% compostability. However, industrial composting facilities often sort and BURN these bioplastics. The labour required to compost these materials simply outweigh the benefits they bring to the compost. We need to start thinking in terms of whether materials will be recycled, rather than whether they can be recycled. Many companies have now banned industrially compostable items from their shelves because of this. Recycling them isn’t an option either - they can contaminate normal petroleum based plastics and cause the entire load of recycling to be sent to landfill.
* PCR (Post Consumer Regrind) aka Recycled plastics - Up to 50% less energy is used making rPET plastics compared to making PET from scratch(1), and of course using recycled plastic prevents bottles ending up in landfill. I believe this is a great option for the future, but unfortunately recycled plastics are simply not developed enough currently. Packaging options are minimal, and those that are available hold minimum order quantities of 25,000+, which completely outrules this option for small and medium businesses.
A little bit about our decision to go with glass packaging
The total energy required to produce, package and transport a 500g glass jar is 34 mega joules (MJ), which is almost the same as an equal sized PET container at 32 MJ (2)(3). But with only 61% of plastic packaging being recycled(4), avoiding plastic waste in our oceans is our priority. Plastic takes thousands of years to decompose, and the micro-plastics they break down into are very dangerous to the maritime flora and fauna. With glass being made from only natural raw materials, if any of the containers were to end up in landfill or our oceans, it poses much less of a threat to our ecosystems and is not considered a pollutant.
Another advantage of glass is that it is infinitely and easily recyclable. Not only does recycling save our natural resources, but most importantly, recycling requires considerably less energy than is needed to melt raw materials for production.
Even better than recycling is to reuse, so please keep your pots! We’re working on a refill system where you’ll be able to download a Freepost label to return your empties and we’ll sanitise them for reuse.
Our decision to keep the polypropylene airless container for our Nutrient Rich Face Cream
Our formula is reliant on living in an airless container - exposure to air would dry it out, making it thicker and less readily absorbed on the skin. I searched far and wide for glass airless containers, which I later learned cannot exist. This is because glass is blown into shape, so each bottle is not completely uniform in size. These small shape variations means the airless mechanism (a flat disc that moves upwards pushing the product out which each pump) cannot achieve an airtight fit in the bottle.
I found glass bottles with thin collapsable plastic bags inside, so are equally airless with much less plastic use. Unfortunately this design has been patented and all the suppliers I found have prices that are triple the plastic version and hold minimum order quantities of 5,000+. This unfortunately is not an option for small businesses.
I looked into reusable airless pump containers, but these are not recyclable. As I can’t guarantee the use of our refill system for all of our bottles, I decided to stick with our polypropylene (PP) pumps. They are fully recyclable and are collected by most local councils.
]]>Its traditional use includes the treatment of skin diseases, as it contains powerful wound healing activity and anti-inflammatory properties.(1) This means it’s also great at soothing redness, and reducing dermatitis.(2)
A balanced composition of fatty acids, along with its ability to easily penetrate the skin and facilitate oxygenation of the skin, makes it a great solution for dry, flaky and ageing skin.(3) A conducted study shows just a 5% solution of Sea Buckthorn Oil showing ‘significant improvements in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss’.(4) Restoration of the skin’s barrier function is perfect to protect us from skin stresses, such as harsh weather and central heating.
The skincare industry is no stranger to vitamin C, which is used to disperse pigmentation and even the skin tone. With Sea Buckthorn having 10 times the vitamin C of an orange, it’s a beautifully bioavailable way to administer vitamin C to the skin.
Find it in our Nutrient Rich Face Cream.
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24007892
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28873377
(3) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28526097
(4) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25362595
]]>
Containing glycolic acid, a natural alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), cane sugar works to slough off dead skin cells and make way for healthier, glowing skin to show through. Glycolic acid is the smallest hydroxyl acid molecule, so can penetrate the deepest and fastest. Because of this, it is known to be the most effective at stimulating collagen and thus helping reduce wrinkles.
The resurfacing element helps to correct any sun damage or pigmentation and smooth the surface of the skin, whilst also fighting against acne and blemishes.
Also being a natural humectant and antioxidant, sugar absorbs moisture from the environment and binds it to your skin, keeping it plump and hydrated, so well protected against toxins and any harsh weather.
Unrefined cane sugar is gently milled before being mixed into our Circulation Boosting Orange Coffee Scrub. The particles are small and gentle, so can be used on our faces, or sensitive skin, as well as our body.
]]>Apart from the UV protection, the high levels of Vitamins E and A, and rich polyphenols work to protect our skin from free radicals, and combat oxidative stress.
The high linoleic and linolenic fatty acids provide excellent moisturising and protective abilities, as well as anti inflammatory properties, to heal dermatitis and other inflammatory skin conditions.
So all in all we’re left with improved regeneration, tone and elasticity. Yes please!
]]>Black cumin (aka Nigella Sativa) seed oil has been known for it’s exceptional benefits both for inside and out for thousands of years, used in Ayurveda and Chinese traditional medicine.
Thanks to the fact it’s rich in minerals magnesium, zinc, calcium, potassium and amino acids, it has the ability to help skin repair itself. This lends itself as a treatment for acne, fading pigmentation, scarring and reducing lines and wrinkles.
It’s anti-inflammatory and natural anti-histamine properties aid in soothing irritation and redness, and reducing skin allergies.
]]>Just as with plants, when you trim your hair’s dead ends, you are making sure none of the nutrients are wasted on the dead portion of the hair. And arguably, by doing this in line with the moon’s gravitation pull, you could increase the pull of nutrients down the hair shaft, resulting in a healthier head of hair and scalp and more hair growth.
Scientific studies are yet to provide evidence for this, but we do know the moon’s gravitational pull has an effect on certain metabolic processes in humans and animals, and it has been proven to affect melatonin levels (1)(2), which is the hormone responsible for modulating hair growth(3). We think this sounds promising! Let us know if you try this and what you think.
When best to cut:
Waning phase and New Moon - During the New Moon your hair is significantly weaker, which you may notice with more hair loss during this time. It’s therefore not advised to cut your hair during the waning phase, and particularly the new moon, as your hair won’t grow back quickly, or be able to bring nutrients to the tips.
If you want to inhibit regrowth, as with waxing or shaving hair in unwanted areas, then the new moon and waning dates of the calendar is the perfect time.
Waxing phase and Full moon - During the Full Moon your hair is able to rejuvenate and grow back quickest. Cutting your hair anytime during the waxing phase, but especially during the Full Moon should bring you strong, healthy, faster growing hair.
Method:
Simply blunt snip your ends around an 1/8th of an inch or more during your desired moon phase to experience the benefits.
Fun fact: Did you know the work ‘lunatic’ originates from those who were said to be ‘moonstruck’ - having gone crazy from the affects of the moon?
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16407788
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26462435
(3) https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1600-079X.2007.00512.x
]]>It’s reputation can be attributed to it’s anti everything properties:
* Antioxidant
* Anti-inflammatory
* Antimicrobial
* Antibacterial
* Antiseptic (1)(2)
* Anaesthetic (1)(2)
* Anti parasitic (1)(2)
* Anti-tumour (1)(2)
It’s polysaccharides content makes it a superior anti-inflammatory agent. This, alongside it’s well documented healing properties means it’s a great treatment for acne(3), skin allergies(4), infections(5)(6), ulcers, and even arthritis.
Also an astringent, Myrrh contracts the skin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles(7), and tighten pores.
All of these potent benefits and myrrh is still a non-irritant(8), so gentle enough for even the most sensitive of skins.
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19209761
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17978635
(3) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22521501
(4) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15173991
(5) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17978635
(6) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26427766
]]>Apart from the UV protection, the high levels of Vitamins E and A, and rich polyphenols work to protect our skin from free radicals, and combat oxidative stress.
The high linoleic and linolenic fatty acids provide excellent moisturising and protective abilities, as well as anti inflammatory properties, to heal dermatitis and other inflammatory skin conditions.
So all in all we’re left with improved regeneration, tone and elasticity. Yes please!
]]>Also high in phytosterols, these are the building blocks of our cellular membrane and structure. It protects our skin’s barrier and benefits skin recovery, whilst working like cortisone to calm the skin and reduce itchiness or inflammation.
Phytosterols also have excellent penetration enhancement qualities, so all this nutrition can absorb fully and throughout the layers to deliver powerful results.
]]>It’s benefits however stretch a lot further than being an anticarcinogen. Sourced by tapping the Boswellia carter or Boswellia sacara tree for it’s resin, it’s potent anti-inflammatory qualities are used internally to treat chronic inflammation, but also externally to relieve inflammation of the skin(2)(3), such as eczema(4), psoriasis and rosacea. Frankincense also reduces pores size, prevents and reduces wrinkles and acne blemishes, scarring, pigmentation and stretch marks, as well as lifting and tightening the skin, thanks to it’s antimicrobial and astringent abilities. One study shows “significant improvements’ in photoaging, roughness, fine lines and elasticity of the skin with no adverse side affects(5).
It is used in aromatherapy to relieve anxiety and depression, as it's been shown to reduce stress reactions and negative emotions by reducing heart rate and blood pressure. The oil can be absorbed through the skin to transmit messages to the limbic system of the brain, which deals with emotional and psychological responses.
(1) https://bmccomplementalternmed.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1472-6882-9-6
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26721216
(3) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24725029
(4) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17291738
(5) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20136919
Being the only food that truly lasts forever, it’s also one that has been used since almost forever. The ancient Egyptians and Chinese dating back 4000+ years used honey for its infection fighting and wound curing benefits.
It’s powerful healing properties are due to the fact it is an antibacterial, as well as hydroscopic, meaning it removes toxic fluid from wounds for an ideal healing environment(1).
As well as honey being a natural humectant (absorbs moisture from the air and binds it to our skin), it also boosts levels of our skin’s own humectant; Hyaluronic Acid. Able to absorb 3000 times it’s weight in water, Hyaluronic Acid is responsible for the plump texture of babies’ skin, which naturally decreases as we age. Drawing water from the environment and binding it to our skin, you will notice long lasting plump, hydrated skin.
The naturally occurring lactic acid in honey has a keratolytic effect on the skin(2), where it lifts dead skin cells from the stratum corneum, helping dull and devitalised skin look radiant again.
Thanks to it’s slightly acidic nature, raw honey restores our skin’s ideal pH, which helps to balance sebum production and keep our pores tight.
(1) https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jocd.12058
]]>It is however light enough for oilier skin types, and has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin’s layers and repair cells from within. That’s why it’s used to treat skin diseases such as acne vulgaris, dandruff, as well as coughing and asthma(1).
It’s also proven to be a promising candidate to soothe and treat inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis(2) and eczema, whilst it firms and tones the skin.
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25219371
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26971222
]]>
Meadowfoam seed oil contains a unique high quality fatty acid composition, which led to the discovery of three new fatty acids.
Enriched with the rare Eicosenoic Acid, it is known for it’s many properties, including balancing the skin’s natural sebum production to resolve excessively dry or oily skin.
The high Tocopherol (vitamin E, an antioxidant) content tackles degeneration and ageing of the skin, and with it’s fast and full absorption, Meadowfoam seed oil delivers these beneficial nutrients deep into the epidermis.
Resembling human sebum, this light, non-greasy oil is mild enough even for the most sensitive of skins.
Our favourite characteristic of this oil is it’s environmental sustainability. The nutritious seeds of this fast growing, highly renewable crop, are fed to livestock after being cold pressed for our lovely oils. While grown, birds, insects and mice also feast on the seeds. As a renewable beneficial crop, the need to burn fields in between crops is eliminated.
]]>It’s rich in minerals and essential fatty acids (particularly omega 3 and 6), which keep our skin supple and youthful, whilst replenishing moisture loss.
It contains high levels of vitamin C - about 35 times more than an orange! Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, and is vital in the formation of collagen, which gives our skin tissue it’s firmness. Vitamin C also benefits the skin by brightening it's tone and fading any dark spots.
The high vitamin A content in rosehip oil also contributes to increased collagen and elastin, and works to heal scars.
As an astringent, rosehip oil has a non-greasy, ‘dry’ feel, and helps reduce the size of our pores. We love it’s beautiful deep pink colour that the organic, cold pressed and unrefined oil brings!
]]>Occupying only 2.5% of agricultural land area, cotton farming uses 7% of the total amount of pesticides used globally each year (accounting for 50% in developing countries) and 16% of all insecticides.
The pesticides used are so toxic to the environment, that 77 million cotton workers are suffering each year from acute poisoning! These pesticides leach into freshwater lakes and rivers, polluting drinking water and threatening the wildlife, our precious ecosystems and human health.
Cotton is also a thirsty crop, taking more than 20,000 litres of water for 1kg of cotton. Fortunately, 80% of organic cotton farming relies on rainwater alone, so reduces the need to waste so much water.
Just like our skincare, Planted’s organic cotton muslin cloth refuses to use synthetic ingredients. Organic cotton farming eliminates all synthetic pesticides and insecticides from production, providing healthy and sustainable farming and a healthier environment.
(1)United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation (2005) FAOSTAT (http://faostat.org)
(2)International Cotton Advisory Committee (2008) An interpretative study on: Pesticide use in cotton
(3)Caldas, T (1997) Organic cotton: not just a matter of fibre. IATP Organic Cotton Monitor 3:3.
(4)EJF (2007) The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton. Environmental Justice Foundation in collaboration with Pesticide Action Network UK. (http://www.ejfoundation.org/pdf/ the_deadly_chemicals_in_cotton.pdf)
(5)Williamson, S (2003) The Dependency Syndrome: Pesticide use by African smallholders. PAN UK: London.
(6)EJF (2007) The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton.
(7)EJF (2007) The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton.
(8)http://wwf.panda.org/about_our_earth/about_freshwater/freshwater_problems/thirsty_crops/cotton/
]]>Leucidal liquid SF is a probiotic based ingredient, created by the fermentation of Lactobacillus, traditionally used as a natural fermenting agent for use in the production of yoghurt, kimchi, sauerkraut, kefir and other fermented foods. A member of the lactic acid family, Lactobacillus is able to restrict the growth of other microorganisms by producing novel antimicrobial peptides, known as bacteriocins, as well as acidifying its environment.(1)(2)
In addition to being a wonderful alternative to synthetic preservatives, it lends nutritive skin conditioning benefits(3), improving the skin permeability of the product, providing antioxidants(4) and increasing hydration(5). Studies show that it can be used to help treat dermatitis symptoms (red, itchy skin condition.)(6)
(1) http://www.lotioncrafter.com/leucidal-liquid-sf.html
(2) https://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/product.asp?product_id=PRESLACTFERMSFUS725
(3) https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/720147/LACTOBACILLUS_FERMENT/
(4) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24248144
(5) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28105118
(6) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24882967
The American Aspen Tree is rich in salicylates, which function as the plant’s natural defence mechanism against invading parasites. This same antimicrobial activity is extracted from the bark, formed into a powder and used in a selection of Planted products to prohibit yeast, mould and bacterial growth.
Historicallly, the extract was used for medicinal purposes, to reduce pain and fever. It is classed as causing little to no irritation, unlike most other preservatives.
As well as the preserving qualities, Aspen bark offers skin conditioning, skin smoothing and antiseborrheic benefits, which means it prevents or relieves excessive secretion of sebum.
(1) http://www.lotioncrafter.com/phytocide-aspen-bark-extract.html
(2) https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/722643/POPULUS_TREMULOIDES_BARK_EXTRACT/
Extracted from the meat of a coconut, coconut fruit extracts is fermented with Lactobacillus to deliver a non-irritating preservative, which acts against fungus in particular. It does this by disrupting the cellular structures of fungus, thus destroying them before they can wreak havoc. (1)(2)
Also provides moisturising and skin conditioning benefits.
(1) https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701565/COCOS_NUCIFERA_%28COCONUT%29_EXTRACT/
(2) http://www.lotioncrafter.com/amticide-coconut.html
Other synthetic preservatives that can be found are:
Regulations need to step up as GSE is still being widely sold and used in "all natural" products, despite the evidence against it. All cosmetic products in the UK containing water are required to undergo rigorous preservative efficacy testing before being sold on the market. It's easy to fall into the trap and use an ingredient that is not actually natural but is almost guaranteed to pass the tests, while still labelling your products as "all natural", but you can see how this is clearly exploiting the consumer.
We opt for a genuinely natural, minimally processed preservation system in our Nutrient Rich Face Cream, which offers probiotic benefits aiding your skin's microflora, hydration levels and soothing properties.
References:
Biomedical Citations
1. The effectiveness of processed grapefruit-seed extract as an antibacterial agent: I. An in vitro agar assay.
2. Antimicrobial activity of grapefruit seed and pulp ethanolic extract.
3. Aspects of the antimicrobial efficacy of grapefruit seed extract and its relation to preservative substances contained.
Blog posts
4. The Truth about Grapefruit Seed Extract.
5. Development and validation of an HPLC/UV/MS method for simultaneous determination of 18 preservatives in grapefruit seed extract.
6. Adverse effects by artificial grapefruit seed extract products in patients on warfarin therapy.
7. Presence of chemical additives and microbial inhibition capacity in grapefruit seed extracts used in apiculture.
When making products at home hygiene becomes a top priority. These are 3 key steps we take to ensure Planted products are manufactured in a sterile zone:
1. Disinfect all equipment and surfaces with 70% isopropyl alcohol
Fun fact (very much dependant on your idea of fun!): Why not use 100% IPA? The water in the 70% IPA plays a key part in killing all surface microorganisms, as it gives just enough contact time before the alcohol evaporates to kill all surface microorganisms.
2. Only use glass, stainless steel or other non porous equipment to prevent bacteria growth and ensure efficient sterilisation.
3. Wear disposable gloves and appropriate clothing, with hair tied back.
Our Nutrient Rich Face Cream was sent to the Oxford Bioscience lab for a microbial challenge test, which confirmed the product at the start and at the end of the 28 day assessment had zero count of bacteria (see image).
And with the design of the airtight container, you can be sure your Nutrient Rich Face Cream will stay germ free throughout it’s lifespan.
Our other products are produced in the same sterile environment, and are formulated free of water, so require no use of a preservative.
All products sold in the UK market are required to pass a Cosmetics Product Safety Report, which looks at things such as the chemical composition, any trace substances and any potential undesirable effects of the product. Surprisingly, no such report is necessary for products to be sold in the US.
Planted products have also been stability tested, through the practice of repeated freeze-thaw cycles and gentle heating for prolonged periods of time. The texture, weight, appearance, colour, and smell were observed to ensure the product would remain stable in a variety of environments.
]]>As a strong anti inflammatory(1), it can ease joint or muscle pain, as well as reduce symptoms of dermatitis and psoriasis.
Because it boosts blood circulation, it can be used to relieve hypertension, headaches, PMS and even to improve libido! The skin’s overall health is improved as it eliminates toxins and stimulates the lymphatic system.
It’s anti bacterial and antiseptic qualities promote acne and wound healing and help to preserve other ingredients when used together.
An increased ability for the skin to absorb vitamin C helps to protect and heal the skin, whilst increasing collagen production and radiance in the skin’s surface.
In aromatherapy, sweet orange is a key oil to balance hormones and ease anxiety. It turns off reactions from stress hormones such as cortisol, which promotes happiness.
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3521325/
Studies have shown it also increases soluble collagen content in the skin(1)(2), whilst decreasing the number of inflammatory cells(3), promoting skin elasticity and healing(4).
A plentiful source of oleic acid, avocado oil has been proven to have natural penetration enhancing benefits, which bring our products deep into the skin’s layers for dramatic results.
This oil has a low comedogenic (pore-blocking) rating .
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/1676360
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19469960
(3) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23573130
(4) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18376654
It’s anti inflammatory properties also help to treat inflammatory skin diseases, such as dermatitis and psoriasis.
Coffee’s caffeine content plays a big part in the overall skincare benefits. As it stimulates blood flow, your nutrient rich blood delivers these nutrients and oxygen your skin more effectively, whilst carrying away waste products and increasing cell regeneration. Think of it as cleansing the skin from the inside.
You should notice your skin looking more vibrant, firm and even toned, as well as a reduction of any cellulite!(7)
It’s ability to constrict blood vessels also work to reduce redness, particularly rosacea.
Why grown by women? In some regions women can find it hard, if not impossible, to legally own land. Allowing the women (who do 70% of the work on farms in most cases) to earn their own wage promotes gender justice in an embedded culture. We buy organic and fairtrade coffee from Equal Exchange, and grind them fresh every batch.
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20509719
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27344635
(3) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26755411
(4) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25104643
(5) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27195822
]]>As a powerful antioxidant, combined with it’s antiseptic and anti-inflammatory(1) qualities, geranium benefit our skin by helping it recover from environmental damage and speed skin healing.
Wrinkles and sagging of the skin are reduced thanks to it’s astringency, which tightens and tones.
It’s a cytophylactic, which means it encourages the recycling of dead cells and regeneration of new cells. This, along with its ability to stimulate blood circulation, make it an effective scarring and pigmentation treatment, whilst promoting equal distribution of melanin (skin’s pigment).
It is also known to balance hormones, relieve stress and uplift our moods.
]]>(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27229681
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26458283
(3) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/27769632
]]>It provides high levels of vitamin E to soften our skin, and is rich in minerals Magnesium, Zinc, Calcium, Potassium and Iron, as well as the fatty acid stearic acid. Another benefit is that our skin's elasticity (namely collagen) and tone is improved with regular use.(1)
The enticing chocolatey aroma is literally good enough to eat!
]]>Its powerful anti-inflammatory(1)(2) and cellular renewal properties help to heal conditions such as rosacea, eczema and psoriasis. It’s even been shown to have anti-tumour effects!(4)
Naturally occurring allantoin and antioxidants(3) means Shea protects your skin from environmental damage, and it even provides the benefit of natural UV protection!
Rich in Vitamin E, A and D, as well as omega 3.
(1) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24261539
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22499721
]]>It’s skin renewal, regeneration and reparation properties are thanks to it’s ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation(2), an epidermal cell which produces keratin, which is responsible for new cell and fibre growth. It’s also known to stimulate the production of collagen, so combined, we’re left with skin that is more plump and elastic, with less wrinkles.
Pomegranate Seed Oil penetrates deep into our skin’s layers, offering sustainable moisture, with no greasy residue. This lends a benefit in our products as it brings the nutrients deep into the dermis for great results.
It’s the only oil to contain the omega 5 polyunsaturated oil called punicic acid. This fatty acid, along with the pomegranate’s high antioxidant content, offers brilliant protection against UV damage and fights off free radicals, which is a main cause for ageing.
Clinical trials show that taken orally(3) and topically(4) it even inhibits cancer growth! It needs further research, but there’s potential that applying this oil can help prevent skin cancer.
(1) http://www.fijitimes.com/story.aspx?id=302605
(2) https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16221534
]]>This beautifully hydrating, purified hydrolat is so soothing, reducing redness and irritation for even the most sensitive of skins.
Our epidermis is protected by the acid mantle, which controls hydration and prevents prevents skin cells from environmental damage. Rose water is key in maintaining proper functionality of our acid mantle, as it is the ideal pH of 5.5. When something too alkaline is applied to our skin, such as water at pH 7, this can leave our acid mantle damaged and defenceless, resulting in roughness, irritation and dehydration.
The naturally cleansing properties also benefit the skin by removing oil and dirt that accumulates in clogged pores, whilst it’s mild astringency and high vitamin C content helps close open pores, tighten capillaries and restore suppleness, without drying the skin.
Rose water is a staple in Ayurvedic medicine, used to detoxify and calm our skins and our mood.
]]>